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Co-ltek Water Proof Connector for 15 inch Coil &

Hardwiring Instructions

Installing the waterproof connector will still allow you to use your WOT coil on your Sovereign as well as your Excalibur.

NEWSFLASH !!!!
6/21/04

I have now personally confirmed that Excaliburs manufactured in the last year have been wired differently.

When you cut the wire coming from your control tube there will be four wires.  RED, BLACK, YELLOW, WHITE.

When you put the male plug on the cable coming from the control tube

Red goes on PIN 1
Black goes to PIN 2
Yellow goes to PIN 3, it is now the common, it used to go to pin 4
White goes to PIN 4, it is now the receive wire and used to go to pin 3

If you have wired your male plug the OLD way with WHITE to pin 3 and YELLOW to pin 4, you will not get a threshold sound.  If you unplug the coil the threshold sound will come back.  When you plug the coil in the threshold sound will go away.

This is an indication that you need to switch the wire on PIN 3 with the wire on PIN 4.

UPDATE 04/19/04
Minelab has apparently changed the wiring on their board.
Here is the new diagram they have provided showing the
change in wiring.  We are working on getting some
step by step instructions on how to address this re-wiring issue.

Alright on the newer Excaliburs Minelab has changed the way the board is wired.

It used to be

Red Position      1 red and Black are your transmit signal wires
     when wiring this red wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 1
Black Position    2
     when wiring this black wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 2
White or Green was position 3, 5, or 6 as they are all common grounds
     when wiring this white or green wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 3
Orange or Yellow position 4, this is your receive wire
     when wiring this orange or yellow wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 4

NOW the wiring is:

Red Position      1 red and Black are your transmit signal wires
     when wiring this red wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 1
Black Position    2
     when wiring this black wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 2
White or Green is position 3, 4, 5, as they are all common grounds
     when wiring this white or green wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 3
Orange or Yellow position 6, this is your receive wire
     when wiring this orange or yellow wire to Co-ltek male plug this goes to pin 4

SOVERIGN ELITE Tornado Coil (This is suspect information, I have to check it out)

Pin 1 is RED
Pin 2 is BLACK
Pin 3 is YELLOW and is Common
Pin 4 is White and is Receive

On a Co-ltek coil for the Sovereign

Pin 1 is RED
Pin 2 is BLACK
Pin 3 is WHITE and is Common
Pin 4 is ORANGE and is Receive

 

Parts List A. O-Ring fitting (3) (There are only two shown in the pictures but the kit comes with three.) B. Acrylic Tube (1) C. Male Plug (1) D. Female Plug (1) COST $60
NOTE:  It is highly recommended that you use heat shrink tubing on all soldered connections to insulate them from one another before seating the plug into the metal sleeve.  It is also highly recommended that you use Loctite on all plug screws and set screws to keep them from working loose. #1. Look at the coil cable coming from your Excalibur Control Tube (where all the knobs are). This is the cable that runs from your Control Tube down to your old coil. Cut this cable approximately 12 inches to 18 inches from the control tube. #2. Take a O-ring fitting and unscrew the plastic wire strain relief and push the 12 inch piece of cable that is left hanging out of the control tube into the plastic strain relief and thread it through the O-ring fitting. Do not screw the strain relief plastic piece to the aluminum O ring connector yet. #3. Strip the black insulation off of the 12 to 18 inches of wire running from your Excalibur control tube and expose the Black, Red, Green, Orange and Blue insulated wires inside.  (IMPORTANT!)  Where these color insulated wires go into the black insulation, put a nice glob of silicone sealant.  The purpose of this is to give you added protection in case you wouldn't get the waterproof connector sealed correctly and the connector flooded.  This glob of silicone sealant would keep the water from going up inside the black wire insulation and seeping into your Excalibur Control Tube and into the electronics. Strip an 1/8th inch of insulation off of the colored wires.  Take the male connector and solder it on the end of the pieces of wires that has been threaded as directed in step #2. Follow the soldering instructions for the male end at the bottom of this page. Now, bring the aluminum "O" ring connector down to the back of the male plug.   Use your silicone sealant, and apply liberally to the Minelab black wire that is behind aluminum "O" ring connector.  Slide the plastic strain relief down over the siliconed wire and screw down carefully so as not to strip the threads.  DO NOT PUT sealant on the "O" ring! #4. Set your detector with the male fittings and O'ring assembly aside for now. #5. If you are retrofitting a WOT- Sovereign, and adding the waterproof connectors, take your new Co-ltek 15 inch coil and cut off the female connector, DO NOT THROW AWAY! If you ordered a WOT-Excalibur COIL the proper female connector along with the aluminum "O" ring fitting and plastic strain relief fitting is already installed. #6. If you are retrofitting a WOT- Sovereign, and adding the waterproof connectors, thread the end of the coil cable through the plastic strain relief, and the aluminum O-ring connector as previously described in Step #2. #7. Either solder the new female connector onto the coil cable end, or use the female connector you had just removed and resolder it as described in the soldering diagram for the female connector.  Do not use silicone sealant on any of the coil connectors! #8. Take your old coil, and once again follow the same instructions as before to attach the plastic strain relief connector, and the O-ring connection As described in Step #7. #9. Taking the end of the coil you are going to use, pull a sufficient amount of wire through the strain relief connector (which should not have as yet been tightened down,) and the O-ring connectors of the coil plug end and thread it into the acrylic tube and out the other end. Connect it to the male connector of the detector. #10. Apply a film of SILICONE GREASE (NOT SEALANT!) around the O'rings of each fitting. Make sure the "O" rings are totally clear of any grit, grime, or debris!   DO NOT use Vaseline or petrol based products. Gently pull the wires so as to position the male and female connectors inside the acrylic tube, and push the O-ring connectors inside each end of the tube. #11. Now carefully tighten down the strain relief plastic onto the O-ring connector of the COIL side of the connector. Do not over tighten or you will strip the threads.  We recommend that you then take a piece of black electrical tape and wrap it around each end of the acrylic tube and the aluminum "O" ring fitting to insure that it doesn't get pulled loose out of the acrylic tube. #12. Test the waterproof connection in a bowl of water to insure all seals are seated properly and do not leak before actually using the unit in the water.  Each time you change coils and break the seal on the waterproof connector, put another film of silicone grease on the connectors, and check to make sure that they are free of sand and grit.   Reseat the connector, wrap black tape around it and test again in a bowl of water to insure water-tightness. You're all set to go.
Minelab Control Box Male Connector Pin 1 Red Pin 2 Black Pin 3 Green Pin 4 Orange Pin 5 not used Pin 6 Blue Note: Green 3 and Blue 6, are a common ground in the control box.	Minelab COIL Cable Female Connector Pin 1 Red Pin 2 Black Pin 3 Green Pin 4 Orange Pin 5 not used Pin 6 Blue Note: Green 3 and Blue 6, are a common ground in the control box.	Co-ltek COIL Cable Female Connector Pin 1 Red Pin 2 Black Pin 3 White Pin 4 Orange Pin 5 not used Pin 6 not used

Hardwiring your WOT Coil to your Excalibur Machine

Hardwiring your WOT coil to your Excalibur is really a very simple exercise.

#1. On each end of the control tube there are black plastic trim rings. Carefully loosen these with a knife they are held in place with a little dab of glue.

#2. You will notice the coil cable and the headphones enter the control tube on each end through an acrylic cap, that has an "O" Ring. If you look carefully, you will see these caps are held in to place with a pair of set screws. One screw on each side of the tube to hold the cap in place.

#3. Remove these screws using the appropriate star screw driver, (available at Radio Shack.) Carefully back the acrylic caps out of the tube on each end.

#4. After removing the cap on the headphone end you will see that on the inside the headphones terminate into a small plug, that plugs into the electronics board. Unplug the headphone wire from the board and place the headphones and acrylic cap aside.

#5. After removing the cap from the coil end, look at the inside of the cap. Notice how the wire comes through the acrylic cap. On some older models, it simply is pulled through the cap. On some newer models, there is epoxy that has been poured around the cable on the inside. Also notice that on the inside of each cap there is a groove that runs across the inside of the cap. This groove is where the electronic board fits, when you are ready to reinsert the cap back into the tube. The groove holds the board in place.

#6. Get a pencil and paper and make a notation of where each of the wires coming from the coil cable is soldered to the board. There should be a red wire, black, green, orange, and blue. Note at which position each is soldered to the board.

#7. Look inside the control tube, you will notice that the control knobs terminate inside the control tube in a small blade. These blades fit into a notch in a stem that comes off of the electronics board. You must make sure you turn all of the knobs all the way counter-clockwise. This aligns the blades in the notches so you may easily pull the board out of the control tube. Pull the board carefully from the control tube.

#8. After having recorded where each of the coil cable wire terminates, in step #6, you may now unsolder the coil cable connections from the board.

#9. If the coil cable simply passes through the acrylic cap with no epoxy, you simply need to unscrew the spiral plastic wire strain relief from the outside of the cap and work the wire out of the acrylic cap.

If the wire is epoxied in, you must unscrew the strain relief and carefully drill the wire out of the epoxy. Make sure that you do not make the hole in the epoxy larger that the wire.

#10. Take your new Co-ltek coil wire and cut off the plug on the end and remove approx. and inch and a half of black insulation. Then strip off about an 1/8 th of an inch of insulation off of the red, black, white, and orange wire.

#11. Take the black plastic trim ring you removed in step #1 and put it onto the the Co-ltek coil cable, also put the plastic spiral wire strain relief on the Co-ltek coil cable. Now work the new wire back through the hole in the end cap and prepare it to be soldered to the board.

#12. If you have removed a standard round Minelab coil from your Excalibur follow wiring instructions (a.) below! If you have an older Excalibur with the Sea Search coil, (it looks like a horseshoe), follow the wiring instructions (b.) below.

(a.) Regular Minelab Coil:

Solder Co-ltek Wire to the place where the Minelab wire was at on board.

Co-ltek MINELAB

Red                 Red

Black        Black

White        Green

Orange        Orange

None        Blue

For example, your red Minelab coil wire was soldered in the first position on the electronics board, solder the red Co-ltek Coil wire there.

Note: Green and Blue are common grounds inside the control box and Co-ltek does not use the Blue wire connection.

(b.) Seasearch Coil

Solder Co-ltek Wire to the place where the Minelab wire was at on board.

Co-ltek MINELAB

Red                 Black

Black        Red

White            Green

Orange        Orange

Not used Blue

For example, your BLACK Minelab coil wire was soldered in the first position on the electronics board, solder the RED Co-ltek Coil wire there.

Note: Green and Blue are common grounds inside the control box and Co-ltek does not use the Blue wire connection.

Once you have wired the machine connect your battery and turn it on to test the connections are working properly.

#13. Inside the acrylic cap where the wire has been worked through you will want to use silicone sealant to secure this area and allow it to dry for 24 hours. If you have trouble working the wire through the opening, use some silicone LUBRICANT, not sealant! You can usually obtain silicone lubricant at Home Depot in the plumbing department or at a SCUBA shop. It is important that you have silicone lubricant to reset the O-rings!

#14. After the silicone has dried, you may carefully remove the "O" rings from each of the acrylic caps. Use a toothpick, do not use any sharp item that would cut or nick the "O" ring. After removing the "O" rings, clean them thoroughly with a tissue. Thoroughly clean the grove the "O" ring fits in of dirt and debris, as well as the rest of the inside of the cap. Take a tissue and thoroughly clean the inside ends of the control tube where the "O" rings will ultimately be seated. They must be perfectly clean of dirt, grit, and debris.

#15. NOW you may put a thin film of silicone LUBRICANT on the "O" ring and seat them back in the "O" ring grooves. Make sure the grooves on the stems on the electronics board are all lined up the way they were when you removed the board and reinsert the board in the control tube carefully sliding it into the blades of the knobs.

#16. Carefully work the acrylic caps back into the tube. Remember to reconnect the headphone plug on that end before attempting to put the cap back on. The easiest thing to do is to plug the headphones back in and seat the board into the groove inside the cap on that end and then work the cap back into place.

Holding the tube upside down, to allow gravity to help the board sit on top of the knob tuning blades, work the cap on from the coil side making sure that the end of the board slides into the groove in that acrylic cap as well.

#17. Stop and examine the "O" rings through the acrylic control tube. Observe that when the "O" ring is making a proper seal it looks shiny black pressed against the inside of the control tube. If there is anyplace where the "O" ring has a break in this shiny black appearance or there is evidence of debris or git between the "O" ring and the control housing, you must back the cap out and reclean and reseat the cap and "O" ring again until the "O" ring displays an uninterrupted black shiny seal all the way around the inside of the tube.

#18. Reinsert the set screws in each end into the control tube to hold the caps in. Do not screw them in all the way, they are simply there to keep the caps from backing out Screw the plastic spiral wire strain relief back onto the coil cable cap end.

#19. Fill your kitchen sink with water, and submerge your control tube into the sink all the way to the bottom and hold it there for a minute. Remove the tube and carefully inspect the "O" rings once again looking for any indication that moisture has managed to compromise the "O" ring barrier. If it has, you must reseat the "O" rings again! Try using more LUBRICANT!

If there is no indication of leakage replace the black plastic trim rings with a small dab of silicone sealant.

#20. The first time you actually hunt with your Excalibur in water keep an eye on the "O" rings every 10 minutes or so for the first hour to insure that you have proper seals.

Happy Hunting!

DOC

Co-ltek™

email me now!
      cop704@yahoo.com

Profile GOLD Prospecting Supply™
A division of Lousignont & Associates, Inc.

Attn: G.M. "Doc" Lousignont, Ph.D.
3740 S. Royal Crest Street
Las Vegas, Nevada 89119-7010
Ph. 1-800-477-3211 ext. 11
Local Number: 1-702-732-8000 ext. 11
FAX 1-702-732-1572

Free counters provided by Honesty Communications.

Advisement:  Use of third party accessories on Minelab Metal Detectors may void your warranty!

Because of the extreme conditions waterproof connectors may be used in, Co-ltek / Co-ltek U.S.A. is not responsible for damage caused by improper installation or seating of the waterproof seals on the water proof connectors.  While these connectos may be used for diving, extreme care must be used to make sure that all connections are seated properly, with sufficient silicone grease.  During the descent, make sure you look at the connector to make sure you are not getting a leak into the waterproof connector.

If the connector leaks, rinse in clear water, and allow to dry completely.  Inspect your "O" rings and make sure that they are not nicked and are free of debris.  Reapply silicone grease and reseat.  Apply black tape and try again.